For the neighborhood walk assignment, I was assigned to
explore Bronzeville with my co-fellow Teddy. I’ve lived in the suburbs for 15
years the most experience I had with Bronzeville was in driving past it on my
way into the city, and even then I only knew that was what it was because of
the large banner-like sign proclaiming it which is visible from the road. It’s
not an area that is ripe for suburban tourists either, which was kind of a
relief when we got the assignment because not only had I never been there but I
had never really heard anything about it from anyone I knew. We started our
walking tour completely by accident at the Illinois Institute of Technology
campus. We passed by a huge stone building labeled “Machinery Hall” and Teddy
suggested we go in and find someone to talk to. It was a good pairing, because
had I been on my own I never would have thought to go into the building, let
alone talk to someone inside. I’m by no means a shy person, but being raised
and spending your angst-filled, easily embarrassed teen years in the suburbs
means constantly doing everything you can not to look like a tourist, even when
you’re in a place you’ve never been before. That paired with my dependence on
technology made this assignment really jarring for me—I kept taking out my
phone to look for directions and then remembering that it was prohibited. It’s
novel to spend an extended period of time (even though it was just a few short
hours, it’s a few hours more than either of us would usually go without our
phones) with my phone in my purse, right there if I need it. Inside Machinery
Hall we spoke to a maintenance man named Maurice, who was more than willing to
help us with our project. He was funny, warm, and eagerly reflected on his 30+
years of working at IIT and told us about growing up in the projects of
Bronzeville, which used to be full of jazz and night clubs. He never explicitly
said anything to us about the racial demographic of the neighborhood, which is
pretty significant to the area as we later discovered, but did mention a few
times that the neighborhood was “changing.” Maurice gave us the address of his
church so we could go somewhere if we had more questions, and we left.
Afterward, we stopped into admissions because I knew the father of my best
friend from elementary school worked there, and although I hadn’t talked to the
girl in years, her father was more than happy to talk to us. He’s been working
there for 13 years and had never walked around Bronzeville or taken a tour. In
fact, he couldn’t really tell us anything about the history of the area, other
than the history of the school specifically. He told us that it was funny how “people
around here and in the suburbs spend so much of their time not thinking about
these areas that are so close to them that they’ve never even been to.” He gave
us directions to get to a sculpture that turned out to be a sculpture from the
prior week’s scavenger hunt that my group hadn’t made it to. We took the bus
over, which was the first time we saw more of the neighborhood than just what
was on the IIT campus. Compared to our own area, there were significantly more
minorities than there usually are, and that was just on the bus. It was mostly
black people, some Hispanics, and a few Asian people. We walked for quite a bit
after getting off the bus and stopped at a church—the front doors were locked,
but we heard Gospel music from the back so we thought maybe people were there.
That door was locked too, but on our way out an older white woman, whom I can
describe only as gruff, yelled after us to see what we wanted. We told her we were doing a school project
about the neighborhood and asked if we could come in and talk to some people.
She replied that they’re only open on Sundays, and upon further questioning
about whether or not we could talk to a pastor, she repeated this, and then
essentially asked us to leave. I’m already kind of skeptical about church-based
experiences, but nobody I’ve ever encountered in a church setting has asked me
to leave before or told me the church was closed—I don’t know much about
churches but I had always assumed they were all open all the time so people
could come and go as they pleased. We continued walking, past a lot of big
hospitals that looked relatively new and fancy, quite a few more churches—mostly
Methodist, Baptist, and Episcopalian, although we did pass one Catholic church—and
a couple developments of really nice looking condos and apartments. These
luxury condos and apartments were peppered by massive, older looking buildings
that appeared to be housing, but it was hard to tell from a distance. We found
the sculpture we were looking for, the Tribute to the Great Northern Migration,
but there were no plaques, no inscriptions, nothing explaining its significance
or the year in which it was erected. After looking at it for a moment and
commenting on how we had seen so few people, we decided to head back over in
the direction we had just come from, to see if we could find somewhere where
there were more people. We got off the bus in what I can only guess is downtown
Bronzeville, where there were a ton of
people, in cars and on foot. Teddy and I were the only white people we saw in
this part of the area. We saw the victory monument, looked at the “walk of fame,”
and tried to get into the visitor center which ended up being closed. As we
walked back to the subway, we found a small historical obelisk shaped sculpture
explaining the history of the area in greater detail than anything we had seen
anywhere else did, spotted a landmark plaque on the outside of an ACE Hardware
denoting its former life as an extremely popular jazz club, and saw the Chicago
Police Department headquarters. This was nothing like the more residential or
campus parts of the area we had seen—it was mostly businesses, in somewhat decrepit
conditions, several fast food restaurants, and a few stretches of blocks that
made me feel a little unsafe (mostly just because of the amount of people on
the street trying to sell things or pass out flyers or ask for money). It’s not
often that I get to be a minority somewhere, which is something that by far
white people take for granted. I honestly loved this experience. Certain aspects
of it were frustrating, sure, but I’m always excited to go somewhere new, and
this was no different especially considering that it’s somewhere I probably
never would have visited otherwise. I hope I never stop having experiences like
this, and that I never stop learning from them.